Pebble V2.0 Instructions - Revision history

Marcmerlin at 08:03, 27 January 2012

2012-01-27T08:03:49Z

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	If you want to use the LCD, you’ll need to attach the LCD display. This is done by making sure that your LCD display has a 16-pin header soldered onto it, and connecting the 16-wire ribbon cable to both the LCD display and the LCD header on the main board, making sure that '''pin 1 on the Pebble board is connected to pin 1 on the LCD display'''.		If you want to use the LCD, you’ll need to attach the LCD display. This is done by making sure that your LCD display has a 16-pin header soldered onto it, and connecting the 16-wire ribbon cable to both the LCD display and the LCD header on the main board, making sure that '''pin 1 on the Pebble board is connected to pin 1 on the LCD display'''.

	If you want test code, you can look at [http://marc.merlins.org/perso/arduino/post_2012-01-24_Much-Improved-Pebble-v2-Aiko-Demo-Code.html Marc MERLIN's page with a full test for most of the Pebble v2's hardware] (note the few example standalone programs that do not use Aiko at the end of that page, and hosted on https://github.com/marcmerlin/pebble_v2_demos )		===Demo Software===

			If you want test code, you can look at [http://marc.merlins.org/perso/arduino/post_2012-01-24_Much-Improved-Pebble-v2-Aiko-Demo-Code.html Marc MERLIN's page with a full test for most of the Pebble v2's hardware] (note the few example standalone programs that do not use Aiko at the end of that page, and hosted on https://github.com/marcmerlin/pebble_v2_demos ).

			Marc's code was based on Andy's original work on github: https://github.com/geekscape/aiko_pebble_v2 .

	===Hardware Features===		===Hardware Features===

Marcmerlin: /* Testing */

2012-01-27T07:58:37Z

Testing

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:58, 27 January 2012
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	If you want to use the LCD, you’ll need to attach the LCD display. This is done by making sure that your LCD display has a 16-pin header soldered onto it, and connecting the 16-wire ribbon cable to both the LCD display and the LCD header on the main board, making sure that '''pin 1 on the Pebble board is connected to pin 1 on the LCD display'''.		If you want to use the LCD, you’ll need to attach the LCD display. This is done by making sure that your LCD display has a 16-pin header soldered onto it, and connecting the 16-wire ribbon cable to both the LCD display and the LCD header on the main board, making sure that '''pin 1 on the Pebble board is connected to pin 1 on the LCD display'''.

			If you want test code, you can look at [http://marc.merlins.org/perso/arduino/post_2012-01-24_Much-Improved-Pebble-v2-Aiko-Demo-Code.html Marc MERLIN's page with a full test for most of the Pebble v2's hardware] (note the few example standalone programs that do not use Aiko at the end of that page, and hosted on https://github.com/marcmerlin/pebble_v2_demos )

	===Hardware Features===		===Hardware Features===

Jonathan Oxer: /* Hardware Overview */

2012-01-15T21:19:34Z

Hardware Overview

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:19, 15 January 2012
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	* RGB LED with each of the 3 LEDs independently programmable, including PWM capability.		* RGB LED with each of the 3 LEDs independently programmable, including PWM capability.
	* Standard HD44780 20x4 alphanumeric LCD display.		* Standard HD44780 20x4 alphanumeric LCD display.
	* Support for a low cost Nintendo DS style 4-wire resistive touchscreen.		* Support for a low cost Nintendo DS style 4-wire resistive touchscreen (not included in the kit for LCA2012)
	* Support for an XBee 802.15.4 radio module or any other "Bee"-compatible module that operates at 3.3V and talks to a serial UART.		* Support for an XBee 802.15.4 radio module or any other "Bee"-compatible module that operates at 3.3V and talks to a serial UART (not included in the kit for LCA2012)
	* Two general-purpose open-collector low-side-switching output transistors for controlling external devices such as relays.		* Two general-purpose open-collector low-side-switching output transistors for controlling external devices such as relays.
	* Rotary encoder for user input.		* Rotary encoder for user input.

Jonathan Oxer: /* Rotary encoder, LCD header */

2012-01-15T21:17:30Z

Rotary encoder, LCD header

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:17, 15 January 2012
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	It can be easier to hold the XBee header sockets in if you have an XBee module handy, by inserting the sockets onto the pins of the XBee module first and then inserting this assembly into the holes on the board. If you don't have an XBee module and don't intend to fit one, you can simply leave those headers off the board.		It can be easier to hold the XBee header sockets in if you have an XBee module handy, by inserting the sockets onto the pins of the XBee module first and then inserting this assembly into the holes on the board. If you don't have an XBee module and don't intend to fit one, you can simply leave those headers off the board.

	=== Rotary ~~encoder, LCD header~~===		=== Rotary Encoder===
	Now we'll also insert and solder the rotary encoder. It should "snap" into place on the board as its mechanical mounting tabs are inserted into the PCB. The tabs can be tricky to clip in though and you need to be careful not to bend the thin leads while wrestling with the mounting tabs. ~~Sometimes~~ it ~~can be~~ helpful to get the part fully aligned and then use a tiny screwdriver or similar to push the tabs sideways until they clip in.		Now we'll also insert and solder the rotary encoder. It should "snap" into place on the board as its mechanical mounting tabs are inserted into the PCB. The tabs can be tricky to clip in though and you need to be careful not to bend the thin leads while wrestling with the mounting tabs. You may find it helpful to get the part fully aligned and then use a tiny screwdriver or similar to push the tabs sideways until they clip in.

	~~Finally, we'll also need to unpack~~ the LCD module and solder a 16-way pin male header onto its connection pads. The LCD connects to the Pebble via a ribbon cable (also supplied) so you can mount the display separately. When plugging them all together, make sure that pin 1 on the header on the PCB connects via the cable to pin 1 on the header on the LCD. One way to check is to hold the LCD directly over the PCB as if it was going to mount over the top of it, in which case the pins on the two sets of headers will naturally align correctly.		=== LCD Module Header===
			Unpack the LCD module and solder a 16-way pin male header onto its connection pads, with the header on the bottom of the PCB. The LCD connects to the Pebble via a ribbon cable (also supplied) so you can mount the display separately. When plugging them all together, make sure that pin 1 on the header on the PCB connects via the cable to pin 1 on the header on the LCD. One way to check is to hold the LCD directly over the PCB as if it was going to mount over the top of it, in which case the pins on the two sets of headers will naturally align correctly.

	=== ATmega328P Microcontroller ===		=== ATmega328P Microcontroller ===

Jonathan Oxer: /* Rotary encoder, LCD header */

2012-01-15T21:15:15Z

Rotary encoder, LCD header

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:15, 15 January 2012
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	=== Rotary encoder, LCD header===		=== Rotary encoder, LCD header===
	Now we'll also insert and solder the rotary encoder. It should ~~just~~ "snap" into place on the board as its mechanical mounting tabs are inserted into the PCB. Finally, we'll also need to unpack the LCD ~~display~~ and ~~we'll~~ solder a 16-way pin header onto its connection pads.		Now we'll also insert and solder the rotary encoder. It should "snap" into place on the board as its mechanical mounting tabs are inserted into the PCB. The tabs can be tricky to clip in though and you need to be careful not to bend the thin leads while wrestling with the mounting tabs. Sometimes it can be helpful to get the part fully aligned and then use a tiny screwdriver or similar to push the tabs sideways until they clip in.

			Finally, we'll also need to unpack the LCD module and solder a 16-way pin male header onto its connection pads. The LCD connects to the Pebble via a ribbon cable (also supplied) so you can mount the display separately. When plugging them all together, make sure that pin 1 on the header on the PCB connects via the cable to pin 1 on the header on the LCD. One way to check is to hold the LCD directly over the PCB as if it was going to mount over the top of it, in which case the pins on the two sets of headers will naturally align correctly.

	=== ATmega328P Microcontroller ===		=== ATmega328P Microcontroller ===

Jonathan Oxer: /* Testing */

2012-01-15T21:10:18Z

Testing

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	===Testing===		===Testing===

	Plug in the USB cable (which we've included for you) into a PC and into the Pebble board, and the blue power LED should light, and the new USB device should be recognized by the OS. If the power LED does not light, you '''did''' install the jumper to short out the USB power disconnection header, right? (Note that the power switch doesn't do anything except ~~for~~ when battery power is used. If USB power is connected, then it is "always on".)		Plug in the USB cable (which we've included for you) into a PC and into the Pebble board, and the blue power LED should light, and the new USB device should be recognized by the OS. If the power LED does not light, you '''did''' install the jumper to short out the USB power disconnection header, right? (Note that the power switch doesn't do anything except when battery power is used. If USB power is connected, then it is "always on".)

	At this stage, you should be able to talk to the board from the PC. It's completely compatible with the Arduino Uno, but we re-used the same firmware used on the Freetronics Eleven, so it identifies itself as a Freetronics Eleven.		At this stage, you should be able to talk to the board from the PC. It's completely compatible with the Arduino Uno, but we re-used the same firmware used on the Freetronics Eleven, so it identifies itself as a Freetronics Eleven.

Jonathan Oxer: /* ATmega328P Microcontroller */

2012-01-15T21:08:17Z

ATmega328P Microcontroller

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:08, 15 January 2012
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	=== ATmega328P Microcontroller ===		=== ATmega328P Microcontroller ===
	We'~~ll also need to insert~~ the ~~Atmel microcontroller chip into~~ the ~~IC socket~~. Pin 1 is noted by a notch at one end of the IC. It may be hidden by the sticker but should be revealed by pushing the sticker back a little. Ask if you are not sure. You will find that the legs of the IC may not line up correctly with holes in the socket. Please do not force it as that trick never works. Instead use a flat surface to push the legs in a little bit and then repeat for the other side.		'''Warning: the MCU is a static-sensitive part. Minimise your handling of the pins once it has been removed from its protective anti-static foam.'''

			The orientation of the MCU is critical. Pin 1 is noted by a notch at one end of the IC. It may be hidden by the sticker but should be revealed by pushing the sticker back a little. Ask if you are not sure. You will find that the legs of the IC may not line up correctly with holes in the socket. Please do not force it as that trick never works. Instead use a flat surface such as the workbench to push the legs in a little bit and then repeat for the other side. The trick is to be "firm, but not brutal" - it can take a reasonable amount of force to bend all the pins straight, but it's easy to overdo it and fold them over. Once again, please ask for help with this step if unsure.

	[[File:IMAG0638.jpg]]		[[File:IMAG0638.jpg]]

Jonathan Oxer: /* MCP9701 Temperature Sensor and 2N2222 Transistors */

2012-01-15T21:04:13Z

MCP9701 Temperature Sensor and 2N2222 Transistors

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	The only way to tell them apart is by looking at the extremely small printing on the face of the part. If you have trouble reading them, don't guess. There are magnifying glasses at the front of the room. To help ensure that you don't get them confused, it could be a good idea to separate out the MCP9701 and put the two P2N2222 transistors back in the bag or parts tray until you're ready to fit them.		The only way to tell them apart is by looking at the extremely small printing on the face of the part. If you have trouble reading them, don't guess. There are magnifying glasses at the front of the room. To help ensure that you don't get them confused, it could be a good idea to separate out the MCP9701 and put the two P2N2222 transistors back in the bag or parts tray until you're ready to fit them.

	The MCP9701 is mounted facing the bottom edge near the mounting hole. Insert it and gently push it down until the body is about 5 to 8mm clear of the PCB. The leads will need to splay out a little to fit. Solder it in place carefully, doing each joint quickly and then letting the part cool down for a few seconds before doing the next one.		The MCP9701 is mounted facing the bottom edge near the mounting hole, in the location labelled "Temp". Insert it and gently push it down until the body is about 5 to 8mm clear of the PCB. The leads will need to splay out a little to fit. Solder it in place carefully, doing each joint quickly and then letting the part cool down for a few seconds before doing the next one.

	Insert and solder the two transistors in the same way.		Insert and solder the two transistors in the same way.

Jonathan Oxer: /* MCP 9701 temperature sensors and transistors */

2012-01-15T21:03:19Z

MCP 9701 temperature sensors and transistors

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	[[File:IMAG0631.jpg]]		[[File:IMAG0631.jpg]]

	=== ~~MCP 9701 temperature sensors~~ and ~~transistors~~ ===		=== MCP9701 Temperature Sensor and 2N2222 Transistors ===

	In the bottom right hand corner you will find three semi-circular shapes on the silscreen, one MCP9701 and two ~~P2N2222, which~~ are TO-92 packages The ~~MCP9701~~ is ~~a temperature sensor and is mounted facing~~ the ~~bottom edge (near~~ the ~~mounting hole~~. It'~~s a TO-92 package which looks identical to~~ the ~~two P2N2222 transistors~~. To help ensure that you don't get them confused, it could be a good idea to ~~remove~~ the MCP9701 and ~~throw~~ the two P2N2222 transistors back in the bag or a ~~box if you have~~ one. ~~Right, insert~~ and solder ~~the MCP9701 temperature sensor followed by~~ the two transistors.		In the bottom right hand corner you will find three semi-circular shapes on the silscreen, which are for one MCP9701 temperature sensors and two 2N2222 transistors. All three parts are in "TO-92" packages, and look absolutely identical.

			'''Careful! Don't get them mixed up and put the parts in the wrong spots. They are not interchangeable.'''

			The only way to tell them apart is by looking at the extremely small printing on the face of the part. If you have trouble reading them, don't guess. There are magnifying glasses at the front of the room. To help ensure that you don't get them confused, it could be a good idea to separate out the MCP9701 and put the two P2N2222 transistors back in the bag or parts tray until you're ready to fit them.

			The MCP9701 is mounted facing the bottom edge near the mounting hole. Insert it and gently push it down until the body is about 5 to 8mm clear of the PCB. The leads will need to splay out a little to fit. Solder it in place carefully, doing each joint quickly and then letting the part cool down for a few seconds before doing the next one.

			Insert and solder the two transistors in the same way.

	==== Xbee Headers ====		==== Xbee Headers ====

Jonathan Oxer: /* DIP Socket */

2012-01-15T20:55:17Z

DIP Socket

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:55, 15 January 2012
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	=== DIP Socket ===		=== DIP Socket ===
	~~We'll now also insert~~ and solder the 28-pin DIP socket for the AVR microcontroller. '''The IC socket should be inserted so that the pin-1 indicator notch on the socket corresponds to the silkscreen marking'''.		Insert and solder the 28-pin DIP socket for the AVR microcontroller.

			'''The IC socket should be inserted so that the pin-1 indicator notch on the socket corresponds to the silkscreen marking, with the notch to the right if you're holding the PCB as shown below.'''

	[[File:IMAG0631.jpg]]		[[File:IMAG0631.jpg]]